Another day in paradise

I got up today and headed to the shower. In Bayview they have an open air shower, which I hope to one day remodel my bathroom to include. However, this shower is in a separate not air-conditioned room, it’s a showering experience within nature herself. And that is when I remembered how hard it was to get dry. You come out of the shower all nice and clean but before you can dry off you are already sweating again. It was beautiful today so I suggested to Kim and Riley that we find someone on the beach with a longtail to take us snorkeling, not knowing it would be beautiful for the remainder of our stay. We put a fresh dressing and coat of Superglue on Riley’s foot and then ate some mini-hot dogs and drank some orange colored juice. I then went in search of a captain.




Yesterday when I was walking down Long Beach I found a captain who I thought said it would be 500 Baht for all three of us to go around Phi Phi Leh snorkeling for three hours. However, today I found out that it was 500 Baht per person so maybe I misunderstood. I did some checking around and it would seem the longtail captains have formed a cartel, every single one of them quoted the same route, the same length of time, and the same cost. Not a single one of them would negotiate.


With little choice I hired some guy on the beach and we headed to the hotel to pick up Kim and Riley.


Kim and Riley climbed in the longtail and we headed around the backside of Phi Phi Leh.


A small opening on the back side of Phi Phi Leh that you can crawl up through if the seas were not so rough.


A longtail is an old wooden boat that is largely underpowered. The backside of Phi Phi Leh is open to the ocean and can have swells up to ten feet. The two together can make for an exciting experience if you do not know what to expect. I think this was the first time on the entire trip that Kim generally felt very uncomfortable. I’m basing this on the fact that she belly crawled to the front of the longtail and started digging out life vests from the hull. More importantly she started to address me as “Christopher” instead of the usual “Chrissy” that both she and Riley commonly used.




We then pulled in to a little cove for our first snorkeling adventure. I jumped in not realizing it was still pretty rough, in fact I did not know it was so rough until I heard “Christopher, I don’t think this is a good idea” from Kim followed by her mother’s pterodactyl scream when a small wave came over the boat. I gave her a reassuring “its fine”, but then added it might be a good idea for Riley to wear a life preserver this one time. We all got in the water and I think they were amazed to see how many fish were all around us.


Once in the water it is not as bad and we hung out for a while checking out all there was to see. We then headed to the famous Maya Bay, the location of The Beach movie.


This was disappointing, seven years ago I have some great video footage of me emerging from the jungle of Phi Phi Leh to a beach with only a handful of people, including me. You could swim in the clear waters of the bay without another person within 1000 yards. Those days are long gone. Not only could you no longer swim in the bay but you would not want to, it was filled with boats dumping their exhaust.


And the beautiful beach, well that is a thing of the past. I was glad to have been here when I was, because it is no more.




Yeah, national park or not, it’s time to get out of here, far too depressing, I guess too many people have been told.


He headed to another cove with much more calm waters and all jumped back in.




The fish were everywhere here. After 10 minutes Riley was ready to get out as it can be an awkward feeling with fish all around you, not just around your feet, plus you did not even get a free beer. So I completely understand.


On our way back we passed a few fishing boats, some big, some small.




When then found a place that I would very much like to live, even Riley thought it was cool.


We then headed to Viking Cave.


On first glance it would appear that there are people living here, and in fact they are, but they are also working here. Inside is a huge cave eroded by waves over the years and is now home to a colony of birds called swiftlets.




This cave has spawned a whole new industry as our good friends, the Chinese, enjoy eating their nests. Which is why there are all these bamboo scaffolding all over the place, it’s how they knock down the nests. Apparently the Chinese believe it gives them increased libido, the rest of Asia believes it removes all logic and reason, causing you to disrespect and ignore sacred places and their boundaries.


Well worth the 500 Baht per person we headed back to get some lunch, walking in to town to see a ferry head out. Sometimes the ferry you want is not the first one you step on and you often have to walk across a boat or two until you find what you hope to be a boat going where you want to go.


I then heard some good Chillout mix from this place and saw this sign, figuring I could use all the help I can get. Although I might be on the wrong side of this, but maybe not, anyway we sat down for lunch.


Perfect... Speak English better I can sometimes... Me want beer....


We were in the right place, not only because I soon had a Singha beer, but because they also had Jenga. Which Riley will start once he finishes his strawberry Fanta.


On the beach out front was a kid practicing for his fire dancing tonight.




And then the moment (or Singha) struck me with inspiration. I can probably do that.


I was wrong.

And then the moment (or strawberry Fanta) struck Riley with inspiration. I can probably do that.


Riley too was wrong.


They too had a very public restroom but with enough Singha(s) to attempt to walk a tightrope, using the restroom was no problem, no matter who passed.


Riley and Kim wanted to go back to the hotel to rest and cool off. Along the way we passed the local police department and their ride was parked outside.


Hey let’s see if they will let you ride it, nope. Well maybe they will let you pose for a nice picture with the bay in the background.


There was a lot of daylight left and I don’t often get to sit on the beaches of Thailand drinking beer and enjoying Chillout and Buddha Bar mixes. So I told Kim and Riley I would meet up with them at the hotel before dinner. I had some thinking to do, and it was about that painting I saw yesterday. He wanted 2000 Baht and only dropped to 1800 Baht yesterday. After another Singha I was ready to buy. Even though Australia was my first international destination it was not until Thailand that I discovered my passion for travel. This was where it all started and this painting had meaning to me so I went back with an offer of 1200. He came back with 1500 and I almost bit as it was way lower then yesterday, so I assumed he did not remember me. I said 1400 (about $45 USD) and he said ok. It would only cost me around eight times that to get it framed once I got home, but it means a lot to me and was totally worth it.


I headed back with excitement to show Kim and Riley.




Kim, while excited for my new purchase, was also a little bummed as she had secretly planned to buy it for me as a thank you for the trip. Sorry…


We then headed out in search of dinner to cap off another day in paradise.




Browsing the daily catch before deciding on an establishment.








It all looked great but it came down to a place that had something for all three of us, Singha beer, White wine, and of course strawberry Fanta.

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