Sunday, June 22, 2014

Journey to Railay Beach, Thailand

We got up this morning and headed to the airport. We would be flying Bangkok Air from Luang Prabang to Bangkok, and then flying Thai Air from Bangkok to Krabi, fortunately they were partner airlines and we could check our luggage all the way to our destination. Riley and I had our pre-flight beer, and last Beer Lao, while Kim had the adventure of another non-western style toilet in the Luang Prabang airport, aka “the squatter”.


Leaving Laos was much like leaving Cambodia, I never really planned on coming here, it was more of a place to go, a place to get away to. Now, I just want to return. The people were great and the food was amazing. You never really hear about Laotian food, but believe me if you get a chance to try some, signup for seconds. The town of Luang Prabang had character and ignored time as it passed by. Laos would have to become a memory for now as I was looking forward to my fourth trip to Thailand. I was looking forward to sharing some of my favorite places with Kim and Riley, as well as seeing what has changed. We got to Bangkok and went through domestic transfers, then confirmed our gate, and went in search of some food. Riley was in heaven and overwhelmed to find all the major fast food chains available here. After only eating local cuisine for the last week and a half it took much deliberation before Riley finally settled on McDonalds. We just about reversed roles as the smell alone almost made me throw up.


The Thai Airways plane to Krabi was huge with 3 seats on each side and then another 5 in the middle. There were probably 30 to 40 of us in a plane that could hold 500, but they still flew and offered us a nice meal, including beer and wine. One of many, many lessons… We got to Krabi and had a shuttle take us to the pier where we would catch a longtail to Railay Beach. Railay pronounced just like Riley. Railay Beach is not actually an island, but rather a peninsula. However, due to the large limestone cliffs and formations it is impossible to access by any means other than a boat. It was great to see longtails again, traditional wooden boats with old, well-used, car engines somehow attached to the end. If you look closely you can still see markings of the make and model of the car engine that is now a boat engine.


U.S. dollars are not accepted here so we converted some USD in to Thai Baht. However, in Thailand there are numerous ATM’s that take Visa and Mastercard so in general it’s pretty easy to get local currency here. The familiar sight of Chicken Island appeared in the distance and I felt like I was home.


A few people expressed concerns that we were going to Thailand, which recently had a coup over throw the government and declare martial law. This was my 4th visit to Thailand and the 2nd visit where there was a coup and martial law, its business as usual. It’s only the U.S. state department that wants you to believe this is some unstable third world country, in fear it will happen in the U.S. and they too would lose power. Unlike the U.S. government, that just shuts down when democrats and republicans are unable to agree, the military in Thailand is a separate entity that can step in when things are stalled. It first declares Martial Law so that they can continue to ensure the safety of their people. They then try to get both sides talking, taking their passports so they cannot flee, unlike the insecure Wisconsin state senators who left for Illinois in order to avoid doing their job and casting a vote. If both sides can still not agree, then the military general declares a coup, taking full power to begin drafting a new constitution, and sets up new elections to take place in the next 6 to 12 months. It’s really an example of democracy in action, one of many, many lessons….


We were in Railay Beach and after checking in to the hotel I went in search of an old friend.


The Thai pancake, specifically Banana and Chocolate, the warm crepe and banana melting the chocolate, now that is some good eats. Because in Thailand you eat Thai pancakes.


We then sat down at the classic Thai “bar stool”, because in Thailand you remove your shoes and sit on pillows on the floor.


I then found another old friend, Singha beer. Because in Thailand you drink Singha beer.


While relaxing overlooking the beach, listening to the waves crash in, a guy came by and told us he was fire dancing at 10pm this evening at “The Last Bar” and let Riley give it a flameless try, which was a good thing. We hung out until 10 as our only plans for Thailand was to relax on the beach, and then walked to “The Last Bar” for some fire dancing. It’s called “The Last Bar” because it is as far as you can go on foot, any farther and you are going to need a longtail.


It was time to have some drinks, enjoy the music, and watch these guys throw around fire without regard to themselves or us, the audience.










This was the Thailand I remembered, Singha Beer, Thai Pancakes, Beautiful Beaches, Longtails, Great Music, Fire Dancing, and now I just need to find a Thai Massage. However, I would soon find that these are the only things that remained the same, and the rest of this place has changed greatly.














Everyone was having a good time, in large part thanks to the alcohol, I guess you could say this is Thailand’s version of clubbing.


Riley taking it all in.


Tonight would make for a perfect “Welcome to Thailand” introduction, with Kim even saying we need to do this again tomorrow night.






The always impressive “Light a cigarette without losing your eyebrows”.




After two flights and a longtail ride to get here, we enjoyed our first night in Thailand and then headed to bed without any flowers to clean up.

VIDEO: Laos Day 5